Instructions Of Interior Painting

Interior painting requires as careful preparation of surfaces as does exterior painting. The advent of odorless paints now makes it possible to paint any time KAWS Companion for sale of the year. Recently, most interior painting in your house was done in the fall or spring, when it was possible to leave the windows open to ventilate the room. But open windows brought dust into the room to marly the finished painted surface.

A good interior paint job is often 50% preparation and 50% painting. Do not rush in preparing the surfaces in your eagerness to find the brush or roller. If you do not prepare the surfaces properly, you’ll be back with the paint brush or roller in a few months.

In this section you will find the required information on the effective use of different types of paints on various interior wall, hall and floor materials.

Plaster

New dry plaster in good condition, which is to be finished with a paint other than water paint, should be given a coat of primer-sealer and allowed to dry thoroughly before being checked for uniformity of appearance. Variations in gloss and color differences in the case of colored primers indicate whether or not the whole surface has been completely sealed. If not, a second coat of primer-sealer should be applied. If only a few “suction spots” are apparent, a second coat during these areas may be sufficient.

A flat, semi-gloss, or high-gloss finish may be applied to the primed surface. For a flat finish, two layers of flat wall paint should follow the priming coat. For a semi-gloss finish, one coat of flat wall paint and one coat of semi-gloss paint should be applied to the primed surface. For a high-gloss finish, one coat of semi-gloss paint and one coat of high-gloss enamel should be used over the priming coat.

Before applying water paints of the calcimine type to new plastered walls they should be sized, using either a glue-water size or, if the plaster is dry, a thin varnish or primer-sealer.

Cold water paints of the casein type may be applied either on to a plastered surface, or the surface may be first given a coat of primer-sealer to equalize uneven suction effects. The same will additionally apply to resin-emulsion paints, with the recommendations of the manufacturer of the product being given preference in case of doubt. Since resin-emulsion paints usually contain some oil in the binder, they should in most cases be applied simply to plaster which has dried thoroughly.

Texture wall paints could also be used on plaster surfaces. The advantages of this type of paint are that one coat in the economy produces a textured decoration and lowers the dullness of smooth flat paint. It also covers fractures or patches in the plaster more completely than ordinary wall paint. The disadvantages of texture wall paint are that they Collect dust and are difficult to revive to a smooth finish. These materials are available as water-or oil-based paints, are thicker than ordinary wall paints, and may be applied to wallboard as well as plaster to produce textured effects such as random, Spanish, mission, and multicolored.

Structure Wallboard

Structure wallboard usually presents no particular painting difficulties if the ordinary precautions are observed, such as making certain that the surface is dry and free from grease and oil. The painting procedure for wallboard is equivalent to for plaster; it requires a priming and wrapping up coat and then whatever finishes layers are desired, or may be given one-coat flat or resin-emulsion type paint.

Background

Water-thinned paint may be applied to background that is well- bonded to the wall and does not contain dyes which might bleed into the paint. One thickness of background is preferable for paint application. Paints other than those of the water-thinned type may also be applied to background by following the directions given for painting plaster. However, background lined with such a paint is difficult to remove without injury to the plaster.

Wood Walls and Trim

New interior walls and wood trim should be smoothed with sand-paper and dusted before painting or varnishing. To preserve the hemp of the wood, the surface may be rubbed with linseed oil, varnished or shellacked, and waxed. If an opaque finish is desired, semi-gloss paint thinned with 1 pint of turpen-tine per gallon of paint or the primer-sealer previously described for walls may be used as a priming coat on wood. One or two layers of semi-gloss paint should then be applied over the thoroughly dry prime coat, or if a full-gloss finish is desired, the last coat should be a high-gloss enamel.

Masonry Walls and Ceilings

Interior masonry walls and ceilings above grade may, in general, be painted in in the same manner as plaster surfaces. Here again, it is necessary to allow adequate time for the masonry to dry before applying paint and, in addition, attention should be provided to the preparation of the surface. When decorating a wall containing Portland concrete floor (concrete, for example), it is essential to take precautions up against the attack of alkali. For this purpose, alkali-resistant primers such as rubber-base paints may be used when oil paints are to follow.

Cement-water paints are best suited for application to cellar walls which are damp as a result of seapage or condensation. To apply these paints, the same procedure should be followed as is described here for painting exterior masonry walls.

Concrete Floors

Two general types of paints for concrete floors are varnish and rubber-base paint. Each has its limitations and the finish cannot be patched without the patched area showing through. Floor and deck enamel of the varnish type gives good service on concrete floors above grade where there is no moisture present.

Rubber-base paints, which dry to a hard semi-gloss finish, may be used on concrete floors below grade, providing the floor is not continually damp from seepage and condensation.

Paint should not be applied to a concrete cellar floor before the concrete has aged for at least a year. The floor should be dry when painted, service provider for application being during the winter or springtime (assuming there is some heating apparatus in the basement), when the humidness in the cellar is low. In general, three layers of paint are required on an unpainted floor, and the first coat should be thin to secure good penetration. After the paint is dry, it ought to be protected with a coat of floor soy wax.

In repainting concrete floors, where the existing paint has been waxed and is in good condition with the exception of some worn areas, the surface should be scoured with towels saturated with turpentine or petroleum spirits and rubbed with steel wool while wet, to remove all soy wax before repainting. If this is not done, the paint will not adhere and dry satisfactorily, if the old paint is badly worn, it ought to be removed by treating with a solution of 2 fat. of caustic pop (household lye) to 1 gallon of difficulties. This may be mopped on the surface and allowed to remain for half-hour after which the floor can be cleansed with difficulties and scraped with a wide steel scraper. Another method of application is to spread a thin layer of sawdust, which has been soaked in caustic solution over the floor and allow it to needlessly stand overnight. The following morning, the floor can be cleansed with difficulties and the paint scraped off. The surface should then be rinsed thoroughly with clean water.

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